In one word: goat cheese ice cream / Intr-un cuvint : inghetata de brinza de capra


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Parca pentru a-mi rasplati rabdarea cautarii a ceva aparte in lumea asta atit de versatila a inghetatei, interesul si entuziasmul mi-au fost satisfacute de-o nebunie frumoasa si absolut decadenta. Si atit de simpla in esenta ! 
Cu gindul la lumea persilor care s-au gindit sa toarne concentrat de suc de struguri peste zapada dintr-un castron si s-o manince ca pe-un 'rece' cu nume regesc,"yakhchal", si care astimpara fierbinteala verii din Hagmatana, luam cite o gura din inghetata care-si scurgea apoi savoarea de-a lungul degetelor si-a barbiei. 
Apoi, am plecat dintr-un an 400 i.H. pentru a presara un gind cu aroma de apa de trandafir peste fidea si totul congelat dupa tehnici simple si la indemina. Ca as mai adauga si sofran sau fructe deshidratate sau alte arome, ar mai avea vreo importanta? 
Nu m-as hazarda in presupuneri de-ale gustului atita timp cit chinezii au congelat laptele impreuna cu orezul inca din anul 200 i.H.
Yang Wanli, in a lui 'Oda inghetatei de brinza'( scrisa undeva prin secolul Xl si-n timpul unei dinastii cu nume parca cu sonoritati aparte) zice atit de bine:



"It looks so smooth but still has a crisp texture,
It appears congealed and yet it seems to float.
Like jade, it breaks at the bottom of the dish;
As with snow, it melts in the light of the sun."

Si m-as mai gindi si la Nero-Imparat care, in toata nebunia lui frumoasa, a adus gheata din munti trasnformind-o in sorbeturi de suc de fructe! Dar, nu pot decit sa-mi plec genunchiul in fata arabilor care au ridicat laptele la rangul de suveran-ingredient al inghetatei. Ca l-au indulcit cu zahar, ca au facut din fructe doar un adaus secundar, ca au folosit si iaurtul in locul laptelui, ca au aromat produsul finit cu apa de trandafiri, ca i-au adaugat fructe uscate si nuci, ei au reusit sa perfectioneze productia celei care va deveni peste milenii, un aliment atit de gustat, dorit, visat si vindut in lume! Si inghetata vinduta pe strazile Damascului sau in pietele Osakai de catre vendorii indonezieni a fost doar urmasa unei vechi retete arabe si-atit de persanei faloodeh.
Se gasi si Marco Polo, in scrierile lui, sa aduca o idee mareata prin simplitate si neasteptat de surprinzatoare ca si continut: brinza de capraAstfel, Drumul matasii care traversa Desertul mongol isi aduse astfel contributia la fas
cinatia unui gust care a subjugat pamintul.
Azi, Hong Kongul pune un punct pe 'i' si adauga absolutului piperul de Sichuan si ciresele Morello. Restul e deja istorie prin susanul negru, ceaiul de iasomie, perele, vinul de Porto si celebra brinza Gorgonzola. Dar, nu pot sa aduc in Oala lumii decit un mic pas spre ceea ce se considera a fi un vast teritoriu al imaginatiei deoarece, la urma urmei, variatiunile pe aceeasi tema se scriu in bucataria fiecaruia... dupa dorinta, putinta si papilele gustative proprii.





Ingrediente(baza pentru 5-6 portii):
3 cani de lapte integral
1 1/2 ceasca de zahar
250 gr brinza proaspata de capra
10-12 galbenusuri mari


Preparare:
1. Laptele si zaharul se amesteca si se incalzesc.  Intre timp, sfarima brinza de capra intr-un castron mai mare.
2. Intr-un bol mediu,separat, amesteca galbenusurile.Toarna incet, peste galbenusuri, laptele cald amestecand constant, apoi toarna tot amestecul in cratita in care ai incalzit laptele cu zaharul.
3. Amesteca continuu pina devine ceva mai tare apoi toarna-l(printr-un filtru sita) in brinza; omogenizeaza si raceste totul in baie de gheata. Raceste complet in frigider apoi congeleaza-l in vasele dorite. Imparte apoi in boluri de servire.


Poti s-o stropesti cu miere si sa-i presari deasupra scortisoara, poti sa-i adaugi fructe piure, poti s-o amesteci cu nuci, alune sau seminte, poti adauga orice aroma vrei ...totul depinde de inspiratia de moment.
Totul se transforma intr-un drum al imaginatiei si-al dansului printre arome, gusturi sau mixturi. O alchimie a dorintei combinata cu frumusetea creatiei.
Fie ea oare, inghetata, o arta a facerii si refacerii unei lumi apuse dar inca atit de prezenta in noi ?







As if to further reward my patience for the​ search of something special in this so versatile
world of the ​ice cream, my interest and enthusiasm were satisfied with a folly beautiful and absolutely decadent. But basically so simple!
Thinking to the Persians who were thought to pour grape juice concentrate over snow in a bowl and eat it as a 'cool' with a​ royal name "yakhchal" and calming the ​heat of a ​summer in Hagmatana, I get​ a spoonful of ice cream which ​flavor poured over the fingers and chin. Then I went a year 400 BC just to sprinkle a thought  with rose water over the noodles and everything frozen over by simple techniques at hand. I'd also add saffron and dried fruit or other flavors would have any importance?
Thinking of the world Persians who were thought to pour grape juice concentrate over snow in a bowl and eat it as a 'cool' with the royal name "yakhchal" and the restless heat of summer in Hagmatana, get cite a spoonful of ice cream flavor-and drained over the fingers and chin. 
Then I left​ an​ 400 BC year sprinkling a​ thought with​ rose water over the ​noodles and everything frozen over by simple and so commun ​techniques. I'd also add saffron and dried fruit or other flavors ... ​would ​it ​h​as​ any importance?
I would not venture myself in ​assumptions ​of the taste, as long as the Chinese have frozen milk with rice since 200 BC​. ​
Yang Wanli, during of ​a dynasty​ with a ​special sounding n​a​me​, Song, in his 'Ode to ​icecream cheese' written somewhere in the ​e​leventh Century​,​ ​said so well:


​​"It looks so smooth but still has a crisp texture,
It appears congealed and yet it seems to float.
Like jade, it breaks at the bottom of the dish;
As with snow, it melts in the light of the sun."

And I wouldn't​ stop thinking ​to the​ ​E​mperor Nero who, in his beautiful insanity​,​ brought​ ice from the ​top of the ​mountains ​turning it on sorbets of​ fruit juice! But I can only bow my knees before the Arabs who have risen milk to the rank of sovereign-ingredient ​of the ​ice cream. As they sweeten with sugar, as ​they made fruit only ​a​ secondary​ ingredient​ , they ​sometimes ​used yogurt instead of milk, they flavored with rosewater ​the ​finished product ​or ​they added ​to it ​dried fruits and nuts, Arabs ​were able to improve the production of which will be over the time​, a food so tasty, desirable, dreamy and sold in the world.

The ice cream sold on the streets of Damascus or in the markets of ​Osaka or by ​the ​Indonesian​ ​vendors was only a ​descendant of an ancient Arab and so ​Persian ​recipe- called faloodehAnd,​ as an icing on the cake​,​ Marco Polo comes in his writings with a great idea ​about  ​simplicity and unexpectedly surprising as content : goat cheese. In this way, The ​Silk ​R​oad crossing​ The ​Mongolian ​D​esert  brought ​its ​fascinating contribution to ​a ​taste that ​enslaved​ the ​earth.

Today, Hong Kong put a dot on the 'i' and ​a​dd to absoluteness​, the ​Sichuan pepper and Morello cherries. The rest is now a history with black sesame, jasmine tea, pears, ​the ​
famous Porto wine and Gorgonzola cheese.
But I can not bring into​ ​the ​W​orld​'s​ pot ​than a​ one small step ​with​ what's considered to be a vast territory of the imagination because, after all, ​v​ariations on the same theme is written in everyone's kitchen, as desire, possib​ility and own taste buds.




​Ingredients(base for 5-6 cups):
3 ​cups of whole milk
1 1/2 ​cup of sugar
250gr  ​of fresh goat cheese
10-12 ​large egg yolks

Preparation:
​1. ​Warm the milk and sugar in a medium pan​. While this​, crumble the 
cheese into another bowl and set a mesh strainer on top.
2. ​In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warm milk into the egg yolks
​ mixture​, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolk mixture back into the pan.
​3. ​Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat until the mixture thickens. Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the cheese. 
​S​tir all until cool over an ice bath.
4. ​Chill the mixture in the fridge and then freeze ​it. Divide then in serving bowls.

You can sprinkle all with honey and cinnamon, ​you ​can add ​to it ​some fruits puree or a mixt from walnuts, pistachios, nuts or seeds, you can add ​to it ​any flavor you want ... everything depends on the inspiration of moment. 

​All and e​verything turns into a journey of imagination, a dance among flavors, tastes and mixtures. An alchemy of desire combined with the beauty of creation....
Whether it really is the ​ice cream an art of creation and restoration of a lost ​world but still so present in us?





Enjoy !

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